Cooling and Mirror clamps

[Robert Geake]

Chaps,

Ive got a fan(from a computer) and some nuts and bolts along with a little
black box for a switch and some extra power hookup sockets. Im going to
install it tonight, the question i have is this:

Do i suck through the tube and out of the back or suck in the back and out
of the tube?

The other query is to do with the little felt coverd steel pads that hold
the mirror to the support. In my humble opinion they arent thick enough? The
screws that hold them down go tight to the surface just as the thread gets
so tight the screw wont turn anymore. I would like to add a 1.5mm washer and
wondered if the original ones are set up like that deliberately to NOT
inflict too much pressure on the mirror???

[Tim Auton]

"Robert Geake" <robert@theDOGgeakes.co.uk> wrote:

Erm, is this your OMC 140 we're talking about?

If it is, then I'd advise a filter on the intake (which, from a
practical point of view, probably means blowing into the focusser). I
tried sucking through the focusser and blowing without a filter on
mine, but both led to a few new bits of dust inside.

I've been meaning to get round to building something like this:

http://www.starcrwzr.com/cooler.htm


Tim
--
You are being watched. This gives you power.

[Robert Geake]

"Tim Auton" <tim.auton@uton.groupSexWithoutTheY> wrote in message
news:bslgh1pgds89585465tii0g9i6np6vqavp@4ax.com...
little
out

No No No, jesus, a mak, im far to cowardly to take that to bits yet! Mind
you i did say that about the newt too

Its a 250 Newt!!

[John Carruthers]

Hi Rob, I blow in at the back and out through the front, my thinking
is this helps the existing convection currents rather than fighting
them. DO NOT over tighten your mirror clips (weird astigmatic effects
will ensue), they should have a 'little' slack, again what I do is set
up with some paper shims then remove them, voila, not too much slap.
Tesco had some 6" diameter 12V dashboard fans last week for £4-99 with
cigarette lighter jacks.
jc

--
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