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    Question Celestron 130 SLT - Unable to align



    Dear All,

    Just to give a brief introduction, I am new to observing skies and I recently bought a telescope: Celestron 130SLT and I am unable to align it since I bought it. I an able to take few pictures of Moon by manually aligning it to the object but everytime I try to align the telescope it doesn't align and it is getting a bit frustrating now. Could be possible i am not doing some basic stuff correctly. Please help!!

    Let me tell you what I am doing here:

    I have tried all the options to align: Skyalign, Solor system, One star, two star, etc. But everytime it shows that it has aligned the object successfully but after alignment, telescope either tries to go up or down completely as if it is trying to take a complete rotation.

    I am unable to figure out an issue maybe I am a bit illiterate when it comes to telescope (maybe missing some settingshere). But it will be really helpful if someone can please guide me with this issue.

    Below are few details you may need:

    Version:
    HC: SLT_LCM 4.22
    MC: 5.18 5.18
    (I believe these are the latest versions)

    Location: Delhi(Gurgaon), India
    Setting used for alignment:
    Time/Data: As per watch/calendar
    Standard time
    Time Zone: Zone 5 (is this correct for Delhi(Gurgaon), India?)

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Celestron 130 SLT - Unable to align

    My 130 SLT is the same.

    I tried for months to get it to work with no success. Celestron's service is a joke; I was told to use alignment marks... mine has none. I was told to start with it level. But then they said it was TOO level. Whatever that means.

    I found that the spring/screws that hold it to the slip clutch were not even finger tight and the tube was VERY tail heavy. It would start slewing straight up on its own sometimes. Celestron said that does not matter.

    Celestron also said that it is normal for it to fail alignment 72 times out of 75.

    First, I balanced my tube and am mounting it slightly back, making the tail roughly 4oz heavy; this will take any slack out of the positioning gears where they engage the motor. On mine, this meant sliding it forward in the dovetail an inch (25mm, sorry.) -Note- I do not know if they use an even or an odd number of gears, so I'm not sure if this preloads the leading face of the primary drive gear or the trailing face, but either way, lifting the tail for positioning will at the very least ensure consistency. (Similar to the method of tuning a guitar string... always start a little low, and tune 'up,' never the other way.)

    Secondly, Celestron said to start with the tube level. He said that the bubble level is accurate enough. However, on mine, the bubble level is located on the tripod, and not the tube. I have access to some extremely accurate levels at work, and scribed some vernier lines on mine; with the bubble level as close as I can eyeball it, I can ensure the tube is level within 2.5Ám per 250mm. Celestron says that is "too level." I assume you could just use a regular bubble level if you have one. (I have access to some very high-precision equipment at work, and 35 years experience working with .001mm dimensional accuracy on a near-daily basis. I guess I do tend to go overboard, but I digress...)

    Third, get a collimator. Or find a cheaper method (again, I went overboard) to ensure the mirror is aligned properly with the eyepiece. This is more of an adjustment to obtain best focus than anything, but it will also essentially "zero" the centerline of the mirror to the centerline of the eyepiece.

    I guess I should have started with this one, and that is: Make certain the tube can't be moved up and down by hand easily. There is a friction-driven slip clutch assembly... it prevents the motor and the gears from getting damaged if something prevents the tube from moving. A few screws with springs hold it together, and if the screws are loose, the springs don't push hard enough, and things slip TOO easily. On mine, they were so loose that sometimes it would slip just by trying to slew at high speeds. But again, Celestron said that was not the problem.

    After I did all of that, I was able to get it to align with a 2-star alignment about six out of ten times in a row. (It was 2 years ago, so "about" is all I remember.) Good enough for me.

    About a month later though and I couldn't get it to align at all, and all Celestron says is "keep practicing."

    I've been practicing to no avail; I'm taking mine apart and repeating all of the steps above today (nothing better to do on furlough, lol!) and hopefully will be able to get back to being able to trying some of the other features on the controller. It is absolutely worth going through the trouble of getting it to work!

    There's a little more details in the old thread:
    http://www.astronomyforum.net/celest...post1058629960

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    Default Re: Celestron 130 SLT - Unable to align

    My 130 SLT is the same.

    I tried for months to get it to work with no success. Celestron's service is a joke; I was told to use alignment marks... mine has none. I was told to start with it level. But then they said it was TOO level. Whatever that means.

    I found that the spring/screws that hold it to the slip clutch were not even finger tight and the tube was VERY tail heavy. It would start slewing straight up on its own sometimes. Celestron said that does not matter.

    Celestron also said that it is normal for it to fail alignment 72 times out of 75.

    First, I balanced my tube and am mounting it slightly back, making the tail roughly 4oz heavy; this will take any slack out of the positioning gears where they engage the motor. On mine, this meant sliding it forward in the dovetail an inch (25mm, sorry.) -Note- I do not know if they use an even or an odd number of gears, so I'm not sure if this preloads the leading face of the primary drive gear or the trailing face, but either way, lifting the tail for positioning will at the very least ensure consistency. (Similar to the method of tuning a guitar string... always start a little low, and tune 'up,' never the other way.)

    Secondly, Celestron said to start with the tube level. He said that the bubble level is accurate enough. However, on mine, the bubble level is located on the tripod, and not the tube. I have access to some extremely accurate levels at work, and scribed some vernier lines on mine; with the bubble level as close as I can eyeball it, I can ensure the tube is level within 2.5Ám per 250mm. Celestron says that is "too level." I assume you could just use a regular bubble level if you have one. (I have access to some very high-precision equipment at work, and 35 years experience working with .001mm dimensional accuracy on a near-daily basis. I guess I do tend to go overboard, but I digress...)

    Third, get a collimator. Or find a cheaper method (again, I went overboard) to ensure the mirror is aligned properly with the eyepiece. This is more of an adjustment to obtain best focus than anything, but it will also essentially "zero" the centerline of the mirror to the centerline of the eyepiece.

    I guess I should have started with this one, and that is: Make certain the tube can't be moved up and down by hand easily. There is a friction-driven slip clutch assembly... it prevents the motor and the gears from getting damaged if something prevents the tube from moving. A few screws with springs hold it together, and if the screws are loose, the springs don't push hard enough, and things slip TOO easily. On mine, they were so loose that sometimes it would slip just by trying to slew at high speeds. But again, Celestron said that was not the problem.

    After I did all of that, I was able to get it to align with a 2-star alignment about six out of ten times in a row. (It was 2 years ago, so "about" is all I remember.) Good enough for me.

    About a month later though and I couldn't get it to align at all, and all Celestron says is "keep practicing."

    I've been practicing to no avail; I'm taking mine apart and repeating all of the steps above today (nothing better to do on furlough, lol!) and hopefully will be able to get back to being able to trying some of the other features on the controller. It is absolutely worth going through the trouble of getting it to work!

    There's a little more details in the old thread:
    http://www.astronomyforum.net/celest...post1058629960

 

 

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