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Thread: Eye Pieces

  1. #1
    Glenn3's Avatar
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    Default Eye Pieces



    OK guys, I ordered a new Zhumell 10" Dobsonian. Do I need new EP's? I have the following EP's that I bought used on Ebay for around $30 each: Meade 9mm, Celestron 20mm, and a Meade Super Plossl 26mm LP multicoated EP . I see that prices can go WAY up from that so I'm thinking its like my photography lenses. APO lense are great but very expensive in Photography so I'd assume the same is true here. Is there a big difference in quality if I get a $100 EP is there going to be a dramatic difference?

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    Default

    I'd recommend holding off for a while before buying much more. Well, maybe a set of three or so Super Plossls and a 2x Barlow.

    And no, very few of the Meade Super Plossls are really Super Plossls.

    But eventually you should consider the truly superb Ethos eyepieces. Of course, the eyepiece may cost more than your telescope. . . But they are truly superb.

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  4. #3
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    Default

    The rule of thumb for buying eyepieces is: buy a new one when you know what you need and why you need it. I am talking about personal-experience knowledge, not just asking us.

    Use the eyepieces you have. If you look through one and say not just "This sucks" but "This sucks because..." then you will know what you need. If you look through one and say "Hey, this is okay", then you can save your money for something else.

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    Default

    Keith hit it on the head. You need to observe with what you have first and foremost. If you find you don't like a particular EP, it really is important that you know why, not just that you just don't like it. If you know why, then you can look for replacements that will rectify or lessen what bothers you about a particular EP. I recommend slow, methodical steps as you work towards your ultimate goal. If you can get to a star party hosted by a club, you will have the opportunity to look through various scopes and EPs. There is no substitute for actually putting your eye to the EP to see firsthand what it can do or not do.

    You will be getting a 32mm widefield EP and a 9mm plossl with your new scope.. You have a reasonable spread of EP focal lengths to start with. I would recommend you don't buy any more just yet. With what you have, I don't even see a need to get a barlow (and personally I don't like nor use them). Regarding your question about a $100 EP, you really can't judge performance on dollar value alone. There are cheaper EPs that will equal or exceed the performance of some $100 EPs. Bottom line is get some observing experience in with the new scope learning it, and the sky. Then focus on what the EPs you have now can or cannot do for you.
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    Default

    I agree..HOLD still and do not buy anything (besides maybe a Chair..its for your eyes not your rear end btw) ) right now.

    Prices of eyepieces ..you get what you pay for BUT the difference is really really small and may be unnoticed to an untrained eye...Plus some scopes (slow ones) can work great with inexpensive eyepieces but that same eyepiece in a fast scope and it will really be poor...

    Do as Keith said,..find out what you NEED then fill that need .... always fill your needs BEFORE you venture into taking care of your WANTS...

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    Default

    Yep. I've got a pretty steep learning curve here. I had a real hard time getting collimated tonight on my first night out. Still not sure I got it right. Seems like the adjustment screw was screwed all the way in but needed to go more. Then I'm not real sure I was turning the right screws on the primary mirror. The book said the thin knobs. They're all the same! I'm guessing the ones with the springs are the adjusters (black) But when I tightened the white ones back down then I lost collimation. I could use some help there. I saw a better image of Jupiter with my 4.5" than with this Zhumell 10". Things HAVE to get better. By the way, this thing is huge.

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    Glenn, have a look at this page. Astro-Baby is a member here and did a good write up about collimation:

    Astro Babys Guide to Collimation

    On the back end of the OTA, the screws with the springs are indeed the collimation screws - I believe they are black. The other ones (white) are the retaining screws which loosen/tighten the mirror clips that hold the mirror in place. You do not want them tightened down, nor do you want them so loose that the mirror would fall out of the mirror cell if you pointed the tube downward. General rule of thumb is to have those to the point where you can slip a business card between the clip and mirror. If they are overtightened, they can actually stress the mirror to the point that it flexes it and you aren't able to achieve collimation. So back off those a little if you tightened them down.
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