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Thread: Upgrade to 2" from 1.25" .....Any thoughts?

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    Danzup77's Avatar
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    Default Upgrade to 2" from 1.25" .....Any thoughts?



    Thinking of upgrading my 8" SCT from a 1.25" to a 2". Wondering if anyone has any experience doing this and would it be worth it. A new diagonal and couple eye pieces arent a big deal.

    ALSO, any opinions on 2X Barlows on a 2" versus on a 1.25"? I have heard some say that they would only reccomend a 2XB on 1.25" eye pieces. I completely dont understand that logic. Then again Im very green still.....lol. My logic says moving up to a 2" and adding a 2XB would mean good things......I dunno

    Thanks all.
    Celestron NexStar 8SE

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    Bob327's Avatar
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    I own a 8i...(earlier model of your 8SE) You bet I use a 2 inch diagonal ..but to do so I needed to add Rays bracket so I could both remove the OTA and adjust its position back and forth on the mount...

    With your 8SE you can already remove the OTA BUT you still may will run into clearance problems between the diagonal and the base of the scope especially if you view near Zenith ..The problem is because the dovetail on your scope is just too short.... so you definitely will need a shorty visual back (not a problem) ..

    My suggestion is to log on to the Cloudy Nights Astro forum and scroll down to the Nexstar specific forum way down the list of forums and read and read PLUS ask questions...

    Search for Rons' Rail or Eddies Bracket ..

    .... both very cheap modifications that allow you to get a lot more adjustment movement so clearing the base of the scope with a 2 inch Diagonal on the back...even when viewing at Zenith is easily done.....

    I run a 2" Denkmeier S1 Power switch diagonal on my 8i as well as on my CPC1100 .. it has a built in 2x Barlow as well as a Built in 0.66 (not 0.63) focal reducer... so I can get 3 different magnifications out of any one eyepiece with a simple push on a button or lever ... so my 20 mm eyepiece allows me to view at 60x 100x or 200x All without touching the eyepiece or removing it from the diagonal...and it takes all of 1/10th of a second to switch...

    The Denkmeier P/S diagonal is not cheap BUT when compared to the cost of a 2 inch Diagonal plus a Balrow plus a Focal reducer IT IS VERY CLOSE but the major reason is that I no longer have to remove the eyepiece, screw in a barlow or remove the diagonal screw on a focal reducer then put everyting back on the scope a dozen or so times each night...

    IF I were to buy just a barlow and a 2 inch diagonal I would buy the 2 inch barlow and install it in the diagonal base... it then will work with both 1.25 and 2 inch eyepieces..

    Hope I did not confuse you... But the addition of a 2 inch diagonal is pretty darn common in any 8 ich SCT...

    Bob G
    gardensatty likes this.
    CPC1100 housed in a slotted domed observatory (Exploradome) 4 and 5 inch refractors for use from the lawn, a 8" Sct (NS 8i) for star parties...
    I Hate the winter so I use heated Motorcycle clothing to stay warm while observing in winter
    Retired, also have 2 other hobbies
    1. tinker with older Corvettes (6 in garage)
    2. make a heck of a lot of sawdust in my wood shop.

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    There is no problem and much benefit to getting a 2" adapter over the 1.25" adapter.

    There is no problem in barlowing a 2" EP, although many wide field EPs will like telecentric barlows better (PowerMate) as these do not cause vignetting of the outer FoV.

    There are two issues: A) The 2" adapter/diagonal is longer than the 1.25 adapter and this will limit your view of the north pole area on a fork mount (not that there is that much to see up there anyways.) B) the 2" adapter and 2" EPs are heavier, and you will have to add weight to the front of the scope to balance the system back out.

    Neither issue should give you any pause.

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    Not too confused lol.....just another aspect I have to research, learn and put into action lol. I truly enjoy leaning all of the aspects to this hobby. Like the nuts and bolts and knowing that even after all the research I do theres always something I DIDNT know. Such as the clearance issue with the base of the scope. Will have to give it a shot and see how it goes. This is what I have coming. Celestron 2" Diagonal with XLT coating (or whatever) and the Baader 18-24mm click stop zoom. Barlow is on the adjenda as well as a few basic 2" eye pieces.
    Anything else I will need for the conversion? Also with the balance and clearance, cant I just slide the scope up higher on the "one armed bandit"? Wont that place more weight toward the front of the scope and also give me a couple inches of base clearance?
    Celestron NexStar 8SE

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    Another thing I just thought of. If clearance is still an issue I probably will not be able to use the star finder hand held controller to move to different locations on its own because of the range of motion it needs to make the adjustments.....Hmmm. Will have to give it a shot and see what I come up with.
    Celestron NexStar 8SE

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    Danzup:

    The problem with the Se dovetail is that it is too short ... so you can not slide the OTA up forward enough to clear the base with a lot (but not all) 2 inch diagonals... ..As noted the solution to that problem is Rons rail or Eddies Bracket ....they are easy to install cheap and effective solution s for that problem ....

    BTW...Most of us with these scopes mount them so that they are very slightly back end heavy....but honestly mounting them so they are slightly front end heavy works just as well you just have to change the scopes GoTo approach settings to match the configuration you are running...

    YOU DO NOT WANT it in perfect balance...the slightly unbalanced mounted OTA helps gravity remove a lot of slop in the spur gears these mounts have...

    Then you asked about using the Hand controller :? that is not goint to be a problem... just set you slew limits and forget about it...if the scope only points up toward Zenith at 85 degrees before it hits the base..just set the limit (utilities or setup menu) at 80......that way the scope will never automatically go any higher then 80 degrees during any slew etc... HOWEVER you can override that manually ...but that should not be a problem

    Bob G.
    CPC1100 housed in a slotted domed observatory (Exploradome) 4 and 5 inch refractors for use from the lawn, a 8" Sct (NS 8i) for star parties...
    I Hate the winter so I use heated Motorcycle clothing to stay warm while observing in winter
    Retired, also have 2 other hobbies
    1. tinker with older Corvettes (6 in garage)
    2. make a heck of a lot of sawdust in my wood shop.

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    Excellent.....Thanks for the info guys. Always appreciated. Also, I meant 8-24mm click stop zoom.....not sure why I thought 18 lol. And I will post back when its all working.
    Celestron NexStar 8SE

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    OK another quick update......got a hint that I may be getting the 8-24mm click stop zoom for christmas (dont ask) therefore I bought the Explore Scientific 14MM 100Degree as my 1st 2" eye piece. Anyone have experience w these? Was gonna get the 20 but ehh....anyhow well see.

    Also, anyone know how to add a photo to the thread?
    Celestron NexStar 8SE

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    I recently purchased a Baader Hyperion 8-24mm Mark III Zoom. I had a Celestron zoom and was not happy with it. Many will recommend individual eyepieces that cover the low,mid and high power range.

    I added the Ron's rail mod to take care of clearance issues.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Celestron NexStar 8SE with Ron’s Rail Mod, Denkmeier S1 diagonal, GSO 8x50mm RACI and Feathertouch SCT MicroFocuser
    Celestron Power Tank and Celestron Dew Shield
    Eyepieces: 35mm Pan. (with Televue eye guard extender), GTO Proxima 31mm, 28mm ES, 20mm Nagler T5, 13mm Nagler Type 6, 9mm Nagler Type 1,
    StarDust Observing Chair
    Orion UltraView 10x50 Wide-Angle Binocular

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    Oh hey, where do I get these Ron's rails or eddies brackets? Which one is preferred for the 8se?
    Celestron NexStar 8SE

 

 
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