April 2019 Discussion Thread

  1. Altocumulus
    Altocumulus
    Does anyone have any experience with the ASI174 on a LS60?
  2. Altocumulus
    Altocumulus
    I'm sat here with half the sun bright, the other half less so. Sign of one sunspot, but if I try to look into the proms I blow out the image with too much exposure. Gain control on Sharpcap gives massive pixellation.
  3. Altocumulus
    Altocumulus
    It seems I can't offer the image, as I can't upload from my PC. Och weel......
  4. Ben Cartwright SASS
    Ben Cartwright SASS
    No experience with the 174 on an LS60 but I use it on my LS50 and LS80.

    which version of Sharpcap do you have? I use V 3.0 for solar (3.1 for DSO) because after 3.0 they got rid of the gamma corrections. If you have or can get 3.0 then set the Gain to 140-150 and use the gamma to dial in the surface and the proms, to the left close to 0 for surface and to the right 90-100 for proms.

    If you can only use gain you really don't want to go higher than 150 and have to control it with exposure.
  5. Altocumulus
    Altocumulus
    Thanks Ben. Too much gain and I run into noise (as expected).
    It's the newest version of sharpcap - the earlier version is still there, I'll fire that one up and look (for some reason they opted to not overwrite 3.0 with 3.1 or 3.2 - Robin did offer a reason why he removed gamma correction.)
    Hard frost this morning, but the sun's popping through.
  6. Lowjiber
    Lowjiber
    I have two 174's... both cooled. They work fine on my LS60.

    Don't blame Robin for the gamma snafu... It's all Sam Wen's (owner of ZWO) fault. He thinks we don't have the right to adjust our own equipment. I've written some scathing things in the ZWO user forum about his narcissism.

    For surfaces, I keep my exposure in the 10 - 11ms range; gain 95 - 105; and gamma very low (better contrast) typically 15 - 20.

    I typically shoot proms with the gain in the 110 - 116 range and gamma usually pretty close to 70'ish. I use exposure control almost completely and the range can vary from 55 - 72ms.

    As far as posting pics here goes, there is only one villain in that arena... the absent forum administrator.

    BTW: I use 3.0.
  7. Altocumulus
    Altocumulus
    Thanks for the re-assurance.
    I tried 3.0 this morning and gave up! I guess it's a matter of continuing to practice.
    Genika kept crashing on me, so I won't be buying a copy just yet.
    Back on 3.2 for the rest of the morning and gentle playing about with settings yielded something not very clear. The issues are 1) overly bright across one half of the frame [I guess that might have something to do with camera placement in the holder] 2) Too much exposure in the sky.

    I'll give your settings a go. Meantime for the afternoon I've installed the 120 which will be fun given the size of the sensor!
  8. TILLIBOBS
    TILLIBOBS
    Have you tried moving the image ( sensor ) in the frame ? . I find it's easier to deal with if the bright part is in the middle of the disk.
  9. Altocumulus
    Altocumulus
    I have. I've also changed the image area to cut out some of the sky, but the over bright area covers half the sensor - I am assuming it's the siting of the camera in the holder.

    Cloud has now spoiled the view, so it'll have to wait for another day.

    Toddler steps.

    I've done some processing using stackistry and impgg - better than I expected, though the overly bright area is affecting the final image. The one sunspot available today has come out, but the prom on the same side is only just viewable.
  10. TILLIBOBS
    TILLIBOBS
    I wonder if you need a spacer ? John ( Lowjiber } is your man.
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