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Thread: AM114EQ Survival Guide

  1. #21
    SouthernOracle's Avatar
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    Default Re: AM114EQ Survival Guide



    You can collimate a B/J scope with a Cheshire collimation tool. The optics of the corrector will not distort the alignment with this technique so it does not have to be removed. I have had much success with my old Swift scope doing it this way. I have the celestron collimator that has the sighting hole.
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    Jonathan
    Scopes: Apertura AD8, AWB OneSky, 1986 Swift #856, 1980s Celestron C90 (orange) on Nexstar 4SE mount
    Binoculars: Sears Discoverer 8-17x40mm
    Cameras: Pentax K-x, Philips SPC900NC

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  3. #22
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    Default Re: is indeed a B/J reflector..."

    Thanks for the reply. I guess that my confusion is this. If indeed the image from the Primary spherical mirror reflected through the Secondary mirror is distorted and needs a third component (a corrector lens) in order to correct the image before entering your eye, how can you make adjustments to the mirror alignment without the correction lense as the images you are seeing are distorted and not accurate without the correcting lens being in place?

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    Default Re: AM114EQ Survival Guide

    SouthernOracle I cannot tell you how thankful I am that you replied to my post. Finally I am hearing sounds of hope and reason. I did purchase the Celestron Cheshire collimation tool with the scope because I couldn't afford the laser one, if the Cheshire tool works on these scopes and the laser one does not than I really lucked out. Thanks again for the reply and ray of sunshine in what was a very cloudy day for me. I can see how a laser collimator may have difficulties with the bird-jones setup, but a Cheshire which only sees what our eye sees I thought should work. Thanks again.
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    Question Re: AM114EQ Survival Guide

    Sorry Dave. I was speaking about collimation with a laser as that's the way I did it on my AM 114EQ and apologize that I misled you and handed out incorrect information to a newbie. I will be more careful in the future and let those with more experience answer these type of questions for sure. I was wondering if the primary mirror on your reflector came center spotted or will you have to do that yourself as there are some way more experienced members here that can help you if you do although I did have to center spot the PM on my AM 114EQ myself.

    Cheers,
    Cherokee.
    Last edited by cherokee; 02-10-2015 at 11:53 PM.
    Randy:
    Skywatcher 10” Collapsible Dobsonian.
    CELESTRON NexStar 8SE with Fastar Secondary.
    MEADE
    NG-60SM 60mm Refractor.
    CELESTRON
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  7. #25
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    Thumbs up 127EQ PM not center spotted..."

    Just found out the 127EQ primary mirror "is not" center spotted from the factory Dave. Should be no problem for you to knock that out in an afternoon.

    Good Luck!
    Cherokee.
    Randy:
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    CELESTRON NexStar 8SE with Fastar Secondary.
    MEADE
    NG-60SM 60mm Refractor.
    CELESTRON
    SkyMaster 15x70 Binoculars.


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  8. #26
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    Default Re: AM114EQ Survival Guide

    Yes, be careful with the collimation issue. You will see a lot of conflicting info about collimating the bird-jones design telescope. Try some filters for saturn and the other planets, filters bring out contrast and specific colors, they won't however improve focus.

  9. #27
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    Default Re: AM114EQ Survival Guide

    No problem Cherokee. The whole collimation issue can be quite a mess. Well now to wait for warmer weather to try it out.
    Daveran
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    Default Re: AM114EQ Survival Guide

    Here are a few tips I learned on mine. Might not work the same for everybody.

    I found the red dot easier to use if I rested my cheek on the tube of the telescope with my eye fairly close to the red dot. Mark the tube with a piece of tape to help keep your face in the same place every time.

    As for collimating, I purchased mine from someone on Craigslist and they didnt have any of the accessories (even the collimating cap) so I had to do it from scratch through trial and error. I started by using Venus when it looked like a crescent. I focused the best I could and it still looked like there was a bit of a double image... as if you crossed your eyes slightly or smeared the object. This works better on an object with a defined edge like a planet or the moon. I adjusted the secondary mirror up front to bring the images together. Then I brought a star slightly out of focus and identified the shadow from the secondary mirror (dark spot in the out of focus star) and centered it in the blurry star using the primary mirror adjustments at the rear of the telescope. Much better. Dont be afraid to point it at a planet or star and try making adjustments to get a better image while viewing.

    Also, Radio Shack sells knobs that can replace the slow motion controls, and they are cheap. Just a nice bit of information if you ever find yourself missing a control handle.

 

 
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