Use RAW always, Jpeg is too compressed and you lose a lot of data. DSS is only really the first step, to get really good pictures you have to the stacked image into photoshop or other imaging program and do most of the work in there.
REQ - Steps for Lagoon Nebula Stacking Software with Canon T2i + Tamron 300mm + tripod
I have tried working with the application, but I am still not getting good results. What format should I use? RAW or JPEG?
Application Deep Sky Stacker 3.3.2
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1) Take the following pics as explained:
----Open Picture Files (Light frames) - the compilation of photos using same settings (nebula or galaxy etc)(5-XXX pics)
----Dark Files - cover the lens and take a few pics - the exposure time, temperature and ISO speed of the light frames (5-10 pics). take at end or during your imaging session
----Dark Flat Files - same as above ?? Needed?
----Offset/Bias Files - 1/4000s or 1/8000s and cover lens (5-10 pics)
----Flat Files - Put a white shirt over lens (5-10 pics) speed of the Light Frames
2) Check All
3) Register Checked Pictures
4) Lost
I can do the attached image, but I want to do more
Use RAW always, Jpeg is too compressed and you lose a lot of data. DSS is only really the first step, to get really good pictures you have to the stacked image into photoshop or other imaging program and do most of the work in there.
Name: Jason
Member of the Royal Astronomical Society of Canada - Mississauga Centre & Stjörnuskoðunarfélag Seltjarnarness (Iceland)
Orion Atlas EQ-G, ES 152mm Mak-Newt, Canon 5DMkll, Canon 60D, EF 70-200mm f/2.8L MkII, EF 24-105mm f/4L, EF 50mm f/1.4
admin (07-22-2011)
If u don't have photoshop,download GIMP.It's not as good,but has a lot of the same features and is "free".
Nice pic!
KLU
Kev
day sleeper since 5/22/2010
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admin (07-22-2011)
Hey there
Can you post screenshots where you get lost?
The final image may look white - you can adjust the levels so you finally see something and or export the TIFF to photoshop or GIMP as Kev mentioned
From there you can adjust brightness, contrast, levels and more.
let us know where you are at.
Name: Gus OTAs: ED 100 PRO refractor, Orion ST80 (not the CF), 8" Dob stuck in Canada Mounts:HEQ5PRO Synscan mount, Manfrotto Tripod CAMS: QHY8L not recommended, Guidecam Philips SPC900 webcams (4), Canon unmodded-450D DSLR
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forget flat and bias - just do darksand lights
Do flats if you have vignetting - which on wide screen shots you don't.
As soon as it finishes, save as a 16bit tif and process in gimp or photoshop
Meade LX90 ACF 8" Canon 450D (Rebel XSi) 18-55 and 75-300 lenses
4000 lens kit .Antares 6.3 focal reducer. Meade Wedge. Orion deluxe off axis guider. Orion Starshoot Autoguider.
230mm Concrete/plastic/steel pier
10ftx10ft shed that passes as an observatory
Editor of Event Horizon Ezine (Southern Astronomical Society's newsletter)
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ok... so darks and lights in raw format.... register...
i use corel draw x5 and well skilled in it.
it is a clear day and the night should good for more testing.
i will try andromeda tonight i think using the scope and camera attached.
i know align polaris then point the scope to andromeda. take my light pics then darks,
the tracker 2x 4x 8x seems very slow to move
thx for the advice. I think I got it figured out. I have had a few days to absorb the replies and I think I am good. Tonight is the first clear night in a while so I wasn't able to test the suggestions. I went to the shop and bought a scope to align Polaris better. I am hyped about getting out tonight.
Orion SkyView Pro 8
Canon EOS T1i
Baader MPCC
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"Paradise is exactly like where you are right now... only much, much better." - Laurie Anderson
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