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Thread: 47 Tuc

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    Default 47 Tuc



    Just another image taken back in October last year to show what a Pentax K100d is capable of even with short exposures.

    This was taken on a colder night with no moon.

    Cheers
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    Awesome thanks Trevor really inspires me to continue despite the setbacks lol...

    cheers mate
    Name: Gus OTAs: ED 100 PRO refractor, Orion ST80 (not the CF), 8" Dob stuck in Canada Mounts:HEQ5PRO Synscan mount, Manfrotto Tripod CAMS: Guidecam Philips SPC900 webcams (4), Canon unmodded-450D DSLR

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    Hey Trevor,
    what ISO setting and exposure settings did you use on your Pentax?

    Also do you have any special exposure equipment? I only have the remote control and its very annoying to hold it down for 30s manually...

    Would love to learn more on how you managed to get beautiful pictures from your K100D please
    Name: Gus OTAs: ED 100 PRO refractor, Orion ST80 (not the CF), 8" Dob stuck in Canada Mounts:HEQ5PRO Synscan mount, Manfrotto Tripod CAMS: Guidecam Philips SPC900 webcams (4), Canon unmodded-450D DSLR

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    Default

    ISO400 on warmer nights ISO800 on colder nights.

    10 darks, 10 flats, 10 bias, 30 or more subs at 30 second per sub

    flats are totally white exposures same ISO etc as subs

    darks same as flats but do at end of image session totally dark exposures done with lens cap on.

    there are others called flat darks and bias frames but I've found they are not totally necessary

    the Pentax will do 30 s exposures on manual setting so just press the button on the release once between frames, turn off the screen saver power turn off flash turn off inc camera noise reduction set white balance to daylight set expsoure to RAW mode.

    A HEQ5 mount will not need guiding for 30s exposures if you have reasonable good polar alignment and have done a 2 or 3 star alignment.

    Let the mount settle between subs for a couple of seconds until image processed in camera and before pressing the release again.

    Read a lot theres a wealth of knowledge available on the net, I've been imaging since Aug last year and are still getting the hang off it and still need to buy mroe equipment, such as light pollution filters , field flatenners and saving pennies to have camera modified.

    Once bitten by the bug you won't stop buying until you've acheived that definitive image. IMO

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    Thanks Trevor,
    very helpful. I find I dont see any gas or dust like you do even with 30-50 second shots but I am in the city here in Sydney. Are you in dark skies when you take your photos? Do I have any hope of taking photos like yours in my skies?

    Also if i get good alignment on the HEQ5, star align, and try drift alignment what can I achieve without using the autoguide port / autoguider?

    Also have you used the autoguide port on yours at all?

    sorry for all the questions, just wanted to learn from a knowledgeable person

    thanks for your time
    Gus
    Name: Gus OTAs: ED 100 PRO refractor, Orion ST80 (not the CF), 8" Dob stuck in Canada Mounts:HEQ5PRO Synscan mount, Manfrotto Tripod CAMS: Guidecam Philips SPC900 webcams (4), Canon unmodded-450D DSLR

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    With perfect polar alignment and drift alignment it's claimed you can easily run 3 minute subs unguided.

    I'm yet to try as I'm pressed for time most imaging sessions and I tend to rely on the autoguider to do all the hard work with this I have achieved subs up to 5 minutes without a problem.

    I'm in the burbs myself only 20 klm from the city centre there are three street lights around me and some of these photos have been taken with the moon either full or half.

    A lot of what I've shown starts out without much showing the end product is extracted via processing.

    Remember the more subs the better, more subs = a greater SNR (signal to noise ratio) means more detail can be extracted in processing.

    I'm yet to get one but light pollution filters will make a difference also.

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    Default

    Nice image of 47 Toucanae, Trevor.

 

 

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