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  1. #1
    Tom E.'s Avatar
    Tom E. Guest

    Default Question about this setup



    http://www.buytelescopes.com/product...pid=4681&m=102

    With this setup and optional motor drive, what kind of luck would
    someone have in imaging stars without smear? Is a guiding scope
    absolutely essential for any level of astrophotography? If so, what
    is the cheapest way of going about that? I am not interested in diving
    right into imaging, but want something that has the potential in the future.
    Thanks,
    -Tom



  2. #2
    William Hamblen's Avatar
    William Hamblen Guest

    Default Question about this setup

    On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 10:48:09 -0700, "Tom E." <tom@wallyworld.net>
    wrote:


    You have to guide for long exposures because no telescope mount is
    100% accurate, so plan on guiding. With this 80 mm telescope a good
    way to get started in astrophotography is to use a camera on a
    piggyback mount. You can guide through the main telescope with a
    guiding eyepiece and make pictures through the camera. When you
    decide that sitting in the dark for hours while trying to keep a star
    on the crosshairs of your guiding eyepiece is fun you can get into
    other forms of astrophotography.


  3. #3
    Carsten A. Arnholm's Avatar
    Carsten A. Arnholm Guest

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    Tom E. wrote:

    The Vixen GP is a good choice with a lot of flexibility without implicit
    financial ruin. But astrophotography can mean many different things
    depending on who you are talking to. So explaining what kind of imaging you
    might want to attempt could be helpful.

    I own two Vixen mounts: a Super Polaris (the predecessor to the GP) , and a
    GPDX. What I like about these mounts is among other things the ability to
    replace motors and controllers with 3rd party solutions that are very good
    quality and cheaper than the original. The SP mount was bought many years
    ago when I had zero experience, but I still use it today.

    Whether you need guiding or not depends on the focal length and exposure
    time of the camera you are imaging with. And guiding is not the only option,
    periodic error correction can be an alternative. But these things are not
    what people start using without some experience. For wide field imaging, all
    you need is a good motor like the MT-1/SD-1 shown, but you will not be able
    to use any guidecamera with it.

    clear skies
    Carsten A. Arnholm
    http://arnholm.org/
    N59.776 E10.457


  4. #4
    Tom E.'s Avatar
    Tom E. Guest

    Default Question about this setup





    "William Hamblen" <william.hamblen@earthlink.net> wrote in message
    news:8rcmk01a626kphgrqqehlldk13voj8kmk3@4ax.com...
    future.

    Can I just photograph through the scope, and get a mini-borg or somthing
    as a guidescope and look through that for an hour or two? Is there an
    eyepiece
    that contains crosshairs? I could put a ccd camera on the mini-borg and
    look at it on a laptop comp, which would cut down on eyestrain:-)
    Another poster was recommending an Meade LXD75. It seems to have
    autocorrecting capabilities.
    -Tom



  5. #5
    Dennis Woos's Avatar
    Dennis Woos Guest

    Default Question about this setup

    > I am not interested in diving
    future.

    I think that the various flavors of this idea is the cause of a whole lot of
    trouble. My advice is to buy for today, which often (not always!) means a
    good visual setup like a small (6"-10") dob.

    Dennis



  6. #6
    Chris L Peterson's Avatar
    Chris L Peterson Guest

    Default Question about this setup

    On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 12:38:12 -0700, "Tom E." <tom@wallyworld.net> wrote:


    Yes. Manual guiding involves putting a piggyback telescope onto your imaging
    scope and keeping a star centered on the reticle of a high power eyepiece. The
    guidescope does not need good optics, but it should have a long focal length
    compared to what you are imaging with.


    Actually, it is possible to guide using an inexpensive low-light security camera
    and a B&W monitor with crosshairs drawn on it.

    _________________________________________________

    Chris L Peterson
    Cloudbait Observatory
    http://www.cloudbait.com

  7. #7
    HAVRILIAK's Avatar
    HAVRILIAK Guest

    Default Question about this setup

    >guiding eyepiece is fun you can

    this should be replaced by "..guiding eyepiece is NO LONGER fun you can..."


  8. #8
    Marvin's Avatar
    Marvin Guest

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    Chris L Peterson wrote:




  9. #9
    Chris L Peterson's Avatar
    Chris L Peterson Guest

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    On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 20:16:05 GMT, Chris L Peterson <clp@alumni.caltech.edu>
    wrote:


    I should have mentioned the other approach to manual guiding, an off-axis
    guider. This is a unit that sits in the optical path of your scope, in front of
    the camera, and picks off part of the field outside the camera FOV and directs
    it to a reticle eyepiece. This can be more robust than a piggyback scope because
    you are guiding on the same optics you are imaging with.

    _________________________________________________

    Chris L Peterson
    Cloudbait Observatory
    http://www.cloudbait.com

  10. #10
    Colin Dawson's Avatar
    Colin Dawson Guest

    Default Question about this setup


    "Carsten A. Arnholm" <arnholm@offline.no> wrote in message
    news:h803d.7879$WW4.120991@news4.e.nsc.no...

    I second what Carsten says. Although I disagree with PEC being an
    alternative to to guiding. It should be though of more as a method to
    suppliment the drive of the scope, meaning that guiding corrections won't
    need to happen as often. If you can do both together then you've got alot
    of potential for perfect shots.

    That scope has all the required elements for long exposure astrophotography,
    the Equatorial mount. I'd suggest starting with some long exposure wide
    field photography to start with, use a 50mm lens on a standard SLR with a B
    setting. Put this ontop of your stope (so that you can guide with the
    scope) set the focus to infity then open the shutter for 20 mins. This
    should give a really good photo that'll wet your apetite for more. Then,
    take you time and find the kit that will suit you most.

    Regards

    Colin Dawson
    www.cjdawson.com



 

 
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